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- WHAT’S EATING YOUR
FERRET? FERRET PARASITES
-
Ferrets can suffer from a number of
parasites, both internally and externally. This article will focus on
the most common external parasites, which are fleas, mites, ticks, and
mosquitos. Unfortunately many of these external parasites can also
transmit other parasites of their own, which begin feeding on your
ferret from the inside. The remainder of the article will cover major
internal parasites.
FLEAS
Ferrets tend to get fleas, particularly
when the weather gets warm and humid and when other pets in the house
carry them in from outside. Flea eggs can remain dormant for up to two
years waiting for a host, so if you have just moved or brought in used
furniture or carpeting, your flea infestation can seem to come out of
nowhere. If you notice excessive scratching, check your ferrets for
fleas by combing with a fine-toothed flea comb and ruffling the fur.
Blowing on the ferret’s fur to see various parts of the skin is also
helpful. Dislodged fleas are reddish brown to black and about the size
of a pencil tip. Dark specks in the fur indicate the flea residue.
Look for fleas between the shoulder blades where they are most
commonly found. Some ferrets are more allergic to fleas than others,
and may develop bald patches or inflamed scabby skin in addition to
the itching. Remember that ferrets scratch themselves for other
reasons than fleas, so don’t panic until you have confirmed that you
have fleas.
To rid a ferret of fleas, bathe with a
flea shampoo suitable for kittens and one that contains pyrethins.
Don't use anything containing organophosphates, carbamates, or
petroleum distillates. Follow the label directions carefully. Shampoo
the ferret starting at their ears and working toward the tail. Be
careful to avoid the eyes and nose. Use a flea comb to remove fleas
from the ferret's face. This may need to be repeated weekly if the
flea infestation is very bad. In general, sprays and dips should be
avoided because they are much more toxic than shampoos and could harm
your ferret.
You will also need to treat the ferret's
environment. Change and launder all bedding in hot water, but avoid
fabric softeners. Treat floors with flea spray or powder and vacuum
frequently. You can use cut-up flea collars in your vacuum cleaner bag
to help kill flea eggs that are swept inside. Flea collars, however,
cause severe irritation on your ferret's skin and can lead to serious
health problems because of the dichlorvos they contain. Flea collars
should NEVER be used on a ferret! Also, do not let your ferret in
contact with the flea sprays or powders used on your floors until it
is safe to do so. Do not put flea powders designed for carpets onto
your ferret either. In fact, flea powders designed for dogs or cats
should only be used as a last resort, because they may cause skin
reactions and lung irritation. Many natural flea repellents contain
cedar oils, which are also toxic to ferrets. Check ingredients
carefully!
Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM recommends
getting a flea bomb from your vet which contains methoprene (a flea
growth regulator). This type of premise bomb will allow you to
complete the household eradication job in just two applications - one
to kill the adults and larva, the second two weeks later to get the
ones that have hatched out since the first spray. (Of course, make
sure to remove your ferrets from the house at the time of the bombing.
Aside from causing infection and skin
allergies, flea bites cause ferrets to lose sleep, lose their
appetite, and become irritable and difficult to handle. Also, it does
not take many flea bites to cause anemia from lack of enough blood in
the ferret's system. Fleas can also transmit diseases, and if a flea
is accidentally ingested when your ferret grooms with his teeth,
tapeworms, an intestinal parasite, can be a serious problem. Flea
infestations can be difficult to solve, but patience and continuous
treatments will eventually get rid of these parasites.
Several new flea eradication products
are on the market that can provide long-term relief to your ferrets,
although none have been specifically tested for use in ferrets.
Frontline spray is the product most highly recommended for ferrets by
veterinarians. The Frontline products, by Merial, contain a
revolutionary new molecule that is highly active against both fleas
and ticks. The product kills all insects within 24 hours of
application; 96% are killed within 2 hours. The product has a wide
margin of safety and has found to cause no problems in kittens at many
times the overdosage level. A single dose can last a month or more.
The product is not affected by sunlight or shampooing. Product
longevity is a potential drawback in the unlikely event your ferret
has an allergic reaction to the product because it cannot be washed
off. Additionally, many ferrets intensely dislike being sprayed with
the product. For these ferrets, Frontline also comes in a "drop
on the neck" type product. One dose of Frontline TopSpot for cats
and kittens is good for two ferrets. Put the half dose (a few drops or
0.25 ml) between the shoulder blades of your ferret. Some ferrets may
develop an allergic reaction to this application, as it is more
concentrated than the spray. Advantage (by Bayer) has a similar
"drop on the neck" product that lasts a month or more and
may be suitable for ferrets. However, toxicology and overdose tests
show that the product slightly more toxic than Frontline. However,
Advantage is water soluble and will wash off in case your ferret has
an allergic reaction. Do not apply these drops if your ferret has a
cut or scratch -- the alcohol base will sting. Other products, such as
BioSpot and Defend, are more toxic and may not be safe for your
ferret. Further studies are necessary on these products before they
can be labeled for ferret use. The main advantage of these products is
that they kill fleas and ticks on contact BEFORE they bite your ferret
and last a month or more between applications.
The last new product is Program by Ciba
(lufenuron). This product is a monthly oral tablet that puts
flea-killing chemicals in the ferret's bloodstream. Use the cat dosage
per pound for your ferret, and feed with a meal. When the flea bites
the ferret and drinks the blood, the flea lays sterile eggs. The
disadvantage is that fleas must bite your ferret first, and it takes
several months for the breeding cycle to be broken. In the meantime,
your ferret can suffer from severe medical problems. Additionally, the
long-term toxic effects of lufenuron in the ferret's bloodstream has
not been studied. Program can be used in conjunction with Advantage or
Frontline without any harmful effects. All three of these product need
to be purchased at a veterinary facility.
TICKS
If you live in a wooded area, or your
ferret has access to the outdoors, ticks may be a problem. The
Frontline spray mentioned in the Flea section are helpful in
eradicating and preventing ticks. Ticks can cause anemia just like
fleas, and carry other diseases, such as Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever.
Lyme disease may also be a serious threat, but not much is known about
Lyme disease in ferrets. Be careful when pulling ticks off your
ferret, as the tick's head or mouthparts can stay lodged in the skin
and can cause serious infections.
MITES
Ferrets can suffer from three different
types of mites: earmites, sarcoptic mites, and demodex mites. Earmites
are by far the most common and are often known as the "ferret
social disease."
EARMITES
Earmite infestations are frequently
found acquired at birth or when the ferret has close contact with
other ferrets, dogs, or cats. The mites are too small to be easily
seen with the naked eye, but the dark, crumbly or black waxy debris
they create in the ears of their host is often abundant. The mite
debris is often smelly. The presence of the mites can be irritating to
the unfortunate ferret who may respond by rubbing and scratching at
his ears or vigorous head-shaking (although these symptoms are usually
not as dramatic as in dogs and cats). Occasionally the mites may
spread to other parts of the head and body; under extreme infestations
the mites may burst the eardrum and cause much deeper, middle or
inner-ear infections.
Diagnosis is usually made by collecting
some of the ear debris and examining it under a microscope by a
veterinarian. Either the mites or their eggs will usually be found in
abundance. One method of treating earmites consists of applying
miticide (labeled as safe for kittens) and cleaning the ear debris
periodically with an ear lotion or peroxide. If mites have spread
outside the ear, flea powder may be necessary on the skin. The
miticide method requires diligence to get the daily drops rubbed into
a struggling ferret’s ears and may take a number of weeks of
treatment to completely cure the problem. A veterinarian can also
apply drops of ivermectin or can give an ivermectin injection once a
week for 2-3 weeks, if your ferret does not enjoy a daily treatment.
Ivermectin treatments should not be used on pregnant ferrets.
On at least two occasions, Oterna ear
mite drops from Pitman-Moore Ltd England (containing betamethasone BP,
neomycin BP and monosulifiram) have caused damage to the outer ears of
ferrets, necessitating the surgical removal of part of the ear. Avoid
using this medication and check other medications for those
ingredients.
Because ear mites are so contagious
among ferrets, cats, and dogs, all household pets must be treated at
the same time. Treat even those pets who do not have the obvious mite
infestations, because the treated pet may be reinfected immediately
after the end of treatment by those animals who were not treated.
SARCOPTIC MITES
Sarcoptic mites are more common in feral
ferrets in Europe, but has been reported in domestic ferrets in
Australia and the United States. These mites can be caught from
infected rabbits, ferrets, or bedding. Your ferret will display
intense itching accompanied by a scabby yellow and red rash. This rash
may appear on the face and ears, or be confined to the feet and toes
(which is why it is sometimes called "footrot.") Diagnosis
can be difficult, and multiple skin scrapings by your veterinarian may
be necessary. Treatments consist of removing scabs and any diseased
portions of skin and claws and applying sulfa drugs topically.
Ivermectin injections may help, and topical corticosteroids can also
help with itching and inflammation. This mite is highly contagious to
other ferrets and to humans.
DEMODEX MITES
Demodex mites are the least common mite.
Ferrets with compromised immune systems or long-term illnesses are
more susceptible to these mites. Yellowish skin, dandruff, and
baldness are symptoms of these mites. Your veterinarian can diagnose
these mites under the microscope and may prescribe regular dipping in
a .0125% amitraz liquid.
MOSQUITOS and
HEARTWORMS
Ferret owners must be aware that
heartworms can attack their ferrets and cause fatal heart disease. The
ferret, whose natural immune system seems to be particularly
intolerant of infection, contracts heartworms through mosquito bites.
Due to the warm winter and damp spring in southern areas, mosquitos
are always in abundance. This raises the risk of heartworm infestation
considerably. This is one reason that outdoor cages are not
recommended for ferrets. Most ferrets are housed indoors and have
little to no exposure to mosquitos. However, if you get mosquitos in
your house, your ferret may need to be treated. Your vet can prescribe
a heartworm preventive to be administered orally throughout the spring
and summer months. This is usually a once-a-month medication, such as
Heartguard, in tablet or cube form. You can get a dosage for a small
cat, and halve this dosage. Heartworms are seldom curable in ferrets;
prevention is the key. Additionally, standard canine tests for
heartworms are not very reliable in ferrets. Dr. Deborah Kemmerer, DVM,
has had more success in using the CITE Snap heartworm test.
RINGWORM
Ringworm is not actually caused by
worms. This skin infection is caused by dermatophytes, or a type of
fungus. The symptoms are usually one or several round, itchy patches
of hair loss. A reddish ring commonly appears. It can also cause
scaling of footpads, or toenail thickening. Ringworm is highly
contagious to humans and other animals. Treatments is with anti-fungal
creams or ingestible tablets. Treatments typically last six weeks.
WORMS AND FLUKES
"Helminths" are parasites that
have a lifecycle that typically goes from eggs to larvae to some type
of worm. Eggs can be ingested by your ferret (usually from the feces
of another infected animal) and the life cycle begins within the
ferret host. Larvae and worms migrate within the ferret and feed off
your ferret from the inside. Ferrets can be infected by nematodes,
hookworms, roundworms, tapeworms, and flukes. Ferrets are also
susceptible to trichinosis if they are fed uncooked meat products.
These intestinal worms are evidenced by a dull hair coat, a pot belly,
weight loss, and diarrhea. A veterinarian can determine if your ferret
has an intestinal worm with a standard fecal flotation test. Oral
wormers such as mebendazole or ivermectin can be administered by your
veterinarian. Ferrets can also get lungworms.
Another potentially serious parasite is
the fluke, which is like a small leech that attaches itself to
intestinal walls or the liver. Flukes are usually caught when a ferret
ingests feces of another animal, usually a dog or cat. Veterinary
assistance is required. Symptoms are quite variable, from
gastrointestinal upset, to urination problems. If you have other pets
in your house, and your ferret has access to their droppings, this may
be good to test for.
INTERNAL PROTOZOAN
INFECTIONS
Ferrets can also suffer from diseases
from microscopic parasites called protozoa. These parasites cause
diseases such as giardia, coccidiosis, and cryptosporidiosis. The
parasites causing these problems attack the intestines.
Giardia is usually caught by
ferrets drinking stagnant, unclean, or aquarium water. It also can be
caught from (and given to) cats dogs and humans. In humans, this is
known as "Montezuma’ Revenge" and in ferrets is
characterized by severe gastrointestinal upset. Antibiotics, such as
metranizidole, are usually given. All surfaces the ferret has contact
with must be disinfected with bleach.
Coccidia comes in several forms
and most often causes lethargy, poor appetites, diarrhea and weight
loss. The infection is highly contagious among ferrets. Some ferrets
may show few signs of coccidia, but may become chronic carriers and
continue to reinfect themselves, other ferrets, and sometimes humans.
Ferrets with proliferative bowel disease are more likely to succumb to
this parasite. A fecal flotation test performed by your veterinarian
can determine if your ferret needs treatment. Usually the treatment is
sulfa drugs.
Cryptosporidiosis can come from
poorly filtered water, raw meat, or fecal contact. The oocytes (eggs)
passed in the feces are resistant to disinfectants and can survive for
a long time and continue to be infectious. The infection can be easily
spread to humans and other domestic animals. Healthy ferrets can fight
off this infection, but those who are already ill or have compromised
immune systems can succumb to the infection. Drugs seem to be
ineffective against this parasite, so prevention is important.
CONCLUSION
By using a few preventive measures, your
ferrets can be free of both external and internal parasites. New
research continues on ways to treat these parasites, so keep up with
the latest findings for having a happy and healthy ferret.
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